Canon EOS M6 Mark II Mirrorless Camera Body - 32.5MP APS-C CMOS Sensor, 4K Video, Dual Pixel AF, Wi-Fi & Bluetooth - Perfect for Vlogging, Travel & Content Creation

I've been using canon products since 2009. I had a 50D, then upgraded to a 5D Mark III and also had a M3. When I go on vacation I take both cameras for various situations (street vs landscapes, and also how much I'm walking around). I decided to upgrade to the M6 Mark II due to the new sensor, increased megapixel count, and more autofocus points. I shoot on the "M" series with the fixed 22mm, the 18-55 or the 55-200 lens.The good:-This camera's focus system is far superior to the M3. Its also good for action shots ,where the M3 was sorely lacking IMO- Color is a lot better overall (the pictures I put above are right out of the camera- note I do use a polarizer and usually a UV filter-- but still those look great- no editing really needed)- Small size- this camera is tiny. You can throw it in a purse with the fixed lens and not have to take a backpack.- Battery life - not bad, I think it only died on me once, though I always (ALWAYS) take two extra batteries. It gets more shots than the M3 for sure.- Video - far superior--- though I don't normally use it for that.- Image stability- helped a lot in certain situations.- Ease of use- pretty good, there is a learning curve (see below).- Price - This is actually affordable for what it offers, something that blows the water out of the larger DSLR cameras that compete with it (like the D90) --- this has far superior photo quality than my D50 or M3 ever had.- Reliability- this camera is very reliable, turns on fast, and was easy to use for the most part.This little camera became my go-to for my trip to Germany in October 2021. I took twice as many photos on this little camera than I did on my 5D. Granted, they are used for different purposes, and the quality is not quite that "wow omg professional level with bokeh and whatnot that you get with the 5D Mark III's glass (I refuse to get an adaptor and lug around a monster lens) -- but this does perfectly for walking around the city, getting decent landscapes, or doing pano shots and stitching them together in photoshop.The cons:- Controls- these really suck if you got used to the amazing exposure compensation control canon used to have on the M3. Where did it go? Who knows. Canon should bring this back. You have to learn them and get used to them, you can manually assign buttons to different things, so this helped me out a lot. I had like 1 week to figure it out before leaving on my trip. By the end I figured it out all the way.-ISO *can* be a bit noisy past about 2000. This can be cleaned up to some extent in photoshop but they could fix this.- Exposure controls- this camera seems to shoot "dark" - its hard to explain, but compared to the M3, you have to work at it a lot more, also only ONE setting allows for more exposure-specific manipulation. This can be annoying when you want to shoot inside, in the dark. Its not exactly a camera good for hand-held long exposures, you need a tripod or to sit it on something and a remote trigger specific to this camera.In the end I would very much recommend this to anyone looking for a smaller bodied camera to take with them to travel or do street photography. It produces excellent pictures, you will have to learn the controls but it does a great job at what it is meant to do. I have had zero problems with it.I've been using the camera for about a month now. Prior to this I used an M3 and before that a Rebel XTi. The sample pictures were taken with the 11-22 IS zoom lens, which is my favorite lens in the lineup. One thing that frustrated me, along with most of the M series users, was Canon's practice of limiting features on these otherwise excellent cameras. It seems like they've been listening to their users. For hobby or amateur use, this is probably more than enough camera for you. Coming from the M3 I was shocked and amazed by the burst shooting speed, and the lack of noise when the ISO is pushed out.I've been using bracketed exposure for years because that's what I was taught back in the film days. I had to dig a little to find it in the menus, but now I have a short cut in the user menu. Because on the M3 I used bracketing to create HDRs in Lightroom I assumed the "HDR" menu setting would do the same thing. It does do automatic bracketing but also creates the HDR in camera. I'd like to have the option of post-processing, but it seems to do OK with the "natural" setting and +/-1 stop or the auto setting. Some of the more arty HDR settings look cartoonish to my eye. I've been doing both HDR and bracketing and just picking out the one I prefer, which could be any of the 4 shots. I haven't done much with the other in-camera effects modes, preferring to get a clean image and post-process. In fact I typically just put the mode dial in M and leave it there. Otherwise what's the point? The poorly done self-portrait example (more on that below) was taken in P mode just for reference.I don't have the hot shoe mounted eyepiece because my my shooting style has adapted to screens and depending on autofocus. In bright sunlight I'm still able to read the screen, although I do rely on the histogram and meter more than I might using a viewfinder. It gets a little cluttered but I've trained myself to look through the text and make use of the "info" button when composing.One thing that hasn't improved is the communication between the app and the camera. It is very confusing to set up. Some features (specifically geo referencing), require Bluetooth while others (remote shooting) require WiFi. Why can't the camera connect to the iOS app using both? Or just send the data however it needs to? The connection between my Mac and the camera is WiFi only, even though it will connect via USB-C cable for photo transfers. Again more futzing around with settings then should be necessary. And the WiFi radio is so underpowered that I couldn't get more than a few feet away before it cut out. That picture of me on the rock ledge was basically just randomly pushing the shutter button on the app and guessing. I suppose I was testing in a high-RF environment (note the antenna farm in the example pic), but I've confirmed it's pretty bad in a suburban environment too. Probably not a normal use case, but still...The thing that has me most excited about this body is a plan to eventually use it on a homebuilt drone. It's a little heavier than I'd like, but otherwise Canon seems to have got this part right for a change. They've included the standard Canon three pin remote shutter release. I can use a simple relay on my drone to trigger the shutter. The HDMI output can show the exact same information as the screen on the back (and will change with the info button). And the hot shoe should be able to supply feedback to the drone for a time stamp in the log. Well done. It remains to be seen how much remote control using WiFi can be hacked, but even if I have to use P mode I'll still have a lot of control.The elephant in the room is of course the question of will Canon continue to support the EOS-M line? I think they probably will, if only because they need to keep in the compact mirrorless category that Olympus created with the PEN and Micro 4/3 format. The lens selection isn't the greatest, but covers most of the normal shooting I do (and there's always the adapter). I think this format fits nicely in the classic rangefinder's position in the catalog.One funny note. Many people think this is a small camera. I compared the size to my old AE-1 and Nikkormat film cameras. These were considered fairly big cameras back in the old days and the M6mkII compares favorably. Sure, when you added a film-burning motor drive and high capacity back (if they were available options), the film cameras got pretty big, but these days what's the point? It might be better ergonomically to have a large camera just to keep from randomly pushing buttons (something I find myself doing with the M6), but then you need bigger cases and more bulk to carry around.